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Lisbon is my hometown, but for years it was just the city I lived in. I liked it, but I saw nothing special here. It was one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and had its own charm, but it was decadent and worn out. It lacked services and activities that would keep people interested beyond the usual stroll around old neighborhoods that were falling apart. It took living abroad for a year to really made me appreciate my home.
I left in , and by then, the city was already changing. I was too busy with my own plans to notice at the time, but the rest of world was already recognizing its beauty, and Lisbon had evolved into a cosmopolitan capital, maintaining the qualities that made her unique.
From on it has won multiple awards as a prime destination. The best thing about Lisbon is its neighborhood life. Do stay at least for a week. Do Not Have Dinner Before 8. We very rarely eat dinner early. Only at very touristy restaurants will you find anyone having dinner before 8pm. Do have dinner after 9. Bars only start filling up after pm, and nightclubs are empty until around am.
Do listen to Fado for free. They act on weekdays, starting at 10pm, and there is no fee for the show. There is no extra to the admission price. Hopping on and of this tram is one the best and most inexpensive ways to get to know the more traditional neighborhoods of Lisbon, but stay away between 6 and 8pm. Apart from being a favorite among tourists, the tram also serves as the means of transportation for many locals.
Do take it between 9 and 11 am. They are overpriced, serve mediocre food, and are the only places in Lisbon with annoying people on the street flogging their businesses.